How-To • Four on the Floor • Sit/Stay • SAY HI • Greetings
Does your dog believe every person he sees is an invitation to jump, lick, hug, and throw himself into somebody's personal space?
Perhaps he's a puppy who thinks everybody wants to hold him. Maybe he's a sixty-pound adolescent who greets every visitor like a long-lost relative. Or perhaps he's an adult dog who knows perfectly well how to Sit but forgets the entire concept the moment his favorite neighbor appears.
You know the neighbor I'm talking about.
The one with a pocket full of treats.
The one who starts calling your dog's name from halfway down the sidewalk.
And the one who says, "Oh, it's okay! I don't mind!" when your dog launches himself toward her.
Well, I mind.
Because she isn't the only person your dog will encounter. There will be children, elderly people, people with balance problems, people recovering from surgery, and people who simply don't want your dog jumping on them.
And here's the bigger issue.
Your dog doesn't get to decide when he's going to greet someone. YOU do.
That's the foundation I want to teach.
Four paws on the floor earn rewards and attention. Jumping doesn't. The leash prevents the dog from practicing the jump while we're teaching. Sit/Stay provides a clear assignment. Watch Me helps the dog check in for direction. And SAY HI becomes a trained permission cue for appropriate greetings.
Then, when I call my dog back, he returns, sits, and remains with me until released again.
That's an actual greeting routine.
Not a free-for-all where the dog decides who he's going to visit and the human gets dragged along behind.
My rule is simple: Four on the floor, and greetings happen by permission.
The dog sees a person, remains responsive to the handler, and waits for direction. Sometimes he gets permission to say hello. Sometimes we simply continue walking.
Excitement, familiarity, and the possibility of a treat do not override the handler's instructions.
Why Dogs Jump on People
Most jumping is rewarding because people make it rewarding.
We bring home an adorable little puppy. He puts his paws on our legs, and we reach down to pick him up. He bounces toward our faces, and we laugh, pet him, and kiss his head.
At nine weeks old, it's cute.
But now he's forty, sixty, or ninety pounds, and he's doing exactly what we've spent months encouraging.
Suddenly it's a problem.
Dogs learn from what works. If jumping produces attention, interaction, food, or access to people, there's a pretty good reason to keep doing it.
And sometimes even our attempts to stop jumping become part of the reward.
We push the dog away. Grab his front feet. Say his name repeatedly. Talk to him. Look directly at him. Wrestle him back to the ground.
For a dog who's looking for engagement, that may still be a whole lot of attention.
So instead of spending all our time arguing about jumping, I want to teach a different way to get what he wants.
Four feet on the floor make people available. Jumping makes access to people disappear.
First, Decide What You Want Instead
"Don't jump" tells me what you don't want.
But what do you want your dog to do?
For ordinary attention, I want four paws on the floor.
For more exciting greetings, I generally use Sit/Stay.
And when we're working on permission-based greetings, I'm going to teach the dog that seeing a person doesn't automatically mean he's allowed to approach.
The human decides whether a greeting will happen.
The dog waits for that decision.
And if permission is given, the greeting still has rules.
Four on the Floor: The First Rule
I don't expect a dog to spend his entire social life sitting like a statue.
Once a greeting is underway, calm standing, sniffing, and appropriate interaction may be perfectly acceptable.
But I do expect his feet to remain on the ground.
That's the default.
If the dog puts his paws on somebody, the interaction stops.
Hands go away.
Petting stops.
The person steps back when appropriate.
And the handler resets the exercise.
Once the dog's feet are back on the ground, we can give him another opportunity.
That's an important part of the learning process.
I don't simply want to correct the mistake. I want the dog experiencing how the correct behavior produces the outcome he wanted.
Prevent the Jump BEFORE It Happens
This is where I use the leash.
And it's a big part of my approach.
If I already know the dog is going to jump on somebody, why would I allow him to launch himself into the person and then try to correct the behavior afterward?
I'd rather prevent the jump from happening in the first place.
That means putting the leash on before greeting practice begins.
Not after the dog has knocked somebody over.
Not after he's scratched the visitor's legs.
And not after he's already been rewarded with thirty seconds of excited attention.
Preventing the jump is part of teaching the replacement behavior.
How I Use My Foot on the Leash
During controlled training, I may place my foot on a portion of the leash to limit how high the dog can move upward.
The dog still has enough slack to stand comfortably with all four paws on the floor, and to Sit when asked, but not enough freedom to launch his front feet onto the person.
This is not about stepping on the dog or pinning him to the ground.
And it isn't about forcing him into a Sit through pressure.
It's a way to control the available movement while he's learning.
I prefer a properly fitted harness for this exercise so that an attempted jump doesn't create sudden force against the dog's neck.
Keep the leash short enough to prevent the jump, but not so tight that he's under constant pressure. Use secure footing and remain balanced. If a dog is too large, strong, or explosive for you to control safely this way, use a gate, greater distance, or another suitable management arrangement rather than risking injury.
Now when the person approaches, the dog has an opportunity to practice remaining grounded instead of successfully jumping.
And the instant we have the correct behavior?
Good.
Reward.
Repeat.
Use the leash to prevent the unwanted behavior, not to punish the dog after he's already jumped.
The teaching happens when the dog learns that keeping his feet on the ground is what earns attention and access.
How-To: Teach Four on the Floor
Begin With a Calm Approach
Start with your dog on leash in a quiet, familiar location.
Have another adult approach normally.
Don't begin with the most exciting person your dog knows. Choose somebody who can follow instructions and keep the interaction controlled.
Position yourself so you can prevent an attempted jump without causing sudden leash pressure.
Reward Four Paws on the Ground
As the person approaches, watch your dog.
If all four paws remain on the floor, mark the behavior with Good.
Reward appropriately.
That may be a food reward from you, calm verbal praise, or brief attention from the helper when the dog is ready.
We're teaching that remaining grounded makes the interaction worthwhile.
If the Dog Attempts to Jump, Prevent the Contact
Use your prepared leash position to prevent the dog from reaching the person.
The helper stops approaching or briefly moves away.
Don't have the helper continue petting while the dog is struggling upward.
And don't create an exciting wrestling match by repeatedly pushing the dog down.
Allow him to return to a comfortable standing or sitting position.
Give the Dog Another Opportunity
Once all four paws are grounded, ask for an appropriate familiar response if necessary.
Mark Good.
Reward.
Then allow the helper to approach again.
We want the dog learning what works, not simply experiencing a series of interrupted mistakes.
Repeat With Short, Successful Interactions
Have the helper approach, pause, interact briefly, and step away.
Repeat.
As your dog improves, increase the length of the interaction.
Then begin practicing with other cooperative adults.
Repetition creates familiarity, and familiarity makes it easier for the dog to respond appropriately when real people appear.
Now We Build the Actual Greeting Routine
Four on the floor is the first piece.
But I want to take this farther.
Because when we're out walking or meeting visitors, the question isn't simply whether the dog will jump.
The question is whether he has permission to greet at all.
And the answer is not automatically yes.
For a structured greeting, I want:
- The dog on leash.
- A reliable Sit/Stay.
- Attention to the handler.
- Permission to approach using SAY HI.
- Four paws on the floor during the greeting.
- A prompt Recall back to the handler when asked.
- A return to Sit/Stay until released.
That's how we make greetings part of our obedience system rather than something the dog initiates whenever he feels like it.
SAY HI Is a Command, Not a Suggestion
Just like Sit, Down, Come, Place, and Heel have specific meanings, I want SAY HI to have meaning.
SAY HI means you have permission to approach and greet this person.
Not the person standing behind them.
Not every other person on the sidewalk.
Not the dog across the street.
And not the person who's already walking away.
It's permission for a particular interaction.
And when I say Come, the greeting is over.
The dog returns to me and resumes the assignment I give him.
That matters because I don't want greetings becoming a situation where the dog believes he's temporarily excused from listening.
Permission to say hello isn't permission to forget every other command he knows.
COME → SIT/STAY → GOOD → REWARD
How-To: Teach Permission-Based Greetings
Start with a familiar adult who's willing to participate in several short rehearsals.
Have the dog on leash. Your helper should be able to approach, stop, step away, and follow your instructions without trying to encourage the dog into excitement.
Approach With Your Dog on Leash
Begin at a distance where your dog can see the person but still listen.
If he's already pulling, screaming, jumping, or unable to respond, you're too close or the setup is too exciting for his current skill level.
Increase distance and make the exercise easier.
Ask for SIT/STAY
Have your dog Sit beside you or in another appropriate, controlled position.
He remains there until you release him.
The person approaching doesn't release him.
The person talking doesn't release him.
And the appearance of a treat doesn't release him.
Use WATCH ME
This is where Watch Me becomes especially useful.
Your dog sees the person he wants to greet.
Perhaps he's staring at them with great anticipation.
Ask for Watch Me.
Now he needs to redirect his attention to you.
Good.
Reward that response while he maintains Sit.
We're reinforcing the idea that he takes direction from the handler rather than simply reacting to the person in front of him.
Have the Person Approach
Your helper approaches a few steps.
If your dog remains in Sit/Stay, mark Good and reward.
If he stands up, surges forward, or attempts to jump, the person stops or moves away.
Reset the exercise.
Make the next approach easier.
Don't reward breaking position by immediately allowing the greeting.
Give Permission With SAY HI
Once your dog is ready and you've decided the greeting is appropriate, say:
"SAY HI."
Allow him to approach the designated person on a controlled leash.
Initially, this may be only a brief interaction.
That's fine.
The dog is learning that approaching a person happens because you gave permission.
Reinforce Four on the Floor During the Greeting
The helper may offer calm attention if your dog remains grounded.
If the dog jumps, the interaction stops immediately.
Use the leash to prevent contact and reset the exercise.
As the dog becomes more experienced, brief standing greetings with all four paws on the floor are perfectly acceptable.
But jumping doesn't earn more interaction.
Call COME to End the Greeting
After a short interaction, give your familiar Recall cue.
"COME."
The dog leaves the person and returns all the way to you.
Initially, use short greeting durations and an easy distance so your dog can succeed.
Mark and reward the return.
Return to SIT/STAY
Once your dog returns, ask for Sit.
He remains with you until released.
You may choose to give permission for another greeting, continue your walk, or move on to something else.
The dog doesn't make that decision independently.
Repeat Until the Entire Routine Becomes Familiar
Practice with the same person several times.
Then with other cooperative people.
Change the location.
Increase ordinary distractions gradually.
And remember that sometimes the exercise should end without any greeting at all.
The Greeting Begins and Ends With YOU
This is one of the most important parts of the entire lesson.
The human decides whether the dog is going to greet.
The human gives permission.
And the human ends the interaction.
I don't want the dog believing that once he gets permission to say hello, the greeting continues until he's finished.
He still needs to respond to Come.
He still needs to return.
He still needs to Sit when asked.
And he still needs to wait for release.
That's why I teach the entire sequence rather than simply waiting until the dog is calm enough to be petted.
What If the Friendly Stranger Has a Treat?
Here's where I see a lot of training fall apart.
You're out walking.
Your dog is in Sit/Stay.
A friendly neighbor approaches.
She pulls a treat out of her pocket.
Your dog sees it and immediately stands up, steps toward her, and reaches for the reward.
The neighbor hands it over.
And now we've taught what?
That a stranger offering food means Sit/Stay is over?
No.
A treat offered by another person is NOT a release cue.
If my dog is in Sit/Stay, he remains there until I release him.
The person holding the treat doesn't get to change that assignment.
And the dog doesn't get to decide that the treat is more important than the command.
How-To: Practice Taking Treats Without Breaking SIT/STAY
This is a separate progression within the greeting exercise, and it's worth practicing intentionally.
Begin With the Dog in SIT/STAY
Have the dog on leash and seated beside you.
Choose a cooperative helper with small, appropriate food rewards.
Start at an easy distance.
Have the Helper Approach With Food
The helper may hold a treat, but they don't immediately lure the dog out of position.
Keep the treat near enough to the dog's mouth that he can receive it without standing, reaching, or lunging.
If necessary, have the helper begin by handing the treat to you for delivery.
Reward Maintaining the Position
If the dog remains seated, mark Good.
Then deliver the treat while he maintains Sit.
That may mean the helper reaches down to the dog's level rather than expecting the dog to reach up or step forward.
If the treat is too far away, make the exercise easier.
If the Dog Breaks, Stop the Reward
If he stands, jumps, or moves toward the treat before release, the helper withdraws the food.
Reset Sit/Stay.
Then practice again.
We want the dog learning that maintaining the assignment is what earns the treat.
Release Only When YOU Decide
The helper may step away.
The treat may disappear.
Another person may approach.
None of those events ends Sit/Stay.
The dog remains until you give the release cue.
A stranger can provide a reward without becoming the person who controls your dog's behavior.
The handler gives the command. The handler controls the release. The helper provides the reward according to the rules of the exercise.
Even if the helper has a pocket full of fabulous treats.
Not Every Person Gets a Greeting
Now here's where I want to be particularly clear.
Your dog does not need to greet every person he sees.
Not every stranger.
Not every neighbor.
Not the person walking toward you with a shopping bag.
Not the person who says, "Oh, I love dogs!"
And not even his favorite neighbor who has been handing him treats since he was a puppy.
Seeing someone he recognizes does not automatically mean he gets to approach.
That includes people he really, really likes.
In fact, those are some of the most important people to practice around.
Because if your dog can only listen when he doesn't care about the person, we haven't finished teaching the skill.
The BFF Neighbor With the Treat Pocket
Imagine you're walking down the street when your dog spots his favorite neighbor.
He knows her.
He loves her.
And he knows there's probably something delicious in her pocket.
So he starts pulling toward her.
Maybe he whines.
Maybe he bounces.
Maybe his entire body begins vibrating in anticipation.
And she starts calling him.
Now here's what I want.
Your dog remains with YOU.
You ask for Sit.
Perhaps Watch Me.
And he waits for your next instruction.
Sometimes you may say SAY HI.
And let him visit.
Other times you may simply say goodbye and continue walking.
That's perfectly acceptable.
Because the neighbor isn't in charge of your walk.
The treat isn't in charge.
And your dog's anticipation isn't in charge.
YOU decide whether the greeting happens.
Practice Passing Familiar People Without Greeting
One of the exercises I like is simply walking past somebody the dog knows.
Without allowing a greeting.
Have a cooperative friend or neighbor stand at a comfortable distance.
Approach with your dog on leash.
If appropriate, ask for Sit and Watch Me.
Reward the dog for remaining responsive.
Then continue walking.
Don't give SAY HI.
Don't allow the helper to call the dog toward them.
Don't allow food to appear as an invitation.
Just walk past.
Repeat with different people and gradually more challenging circumstances.
This teaches something that many dogs never learn:
A person can be present without becoming part of your dog's activity.
And that's a very useful social skill.
Sometimes SAY HI, Sometimes Keep Walking
Once the basic greeting routine is reliable, I want variation.
Sometimes the dog may greet.
Sometimes he remains in Sit/Stay while you talk to somebody.
Sometimes the person offers a treat while he remains seated.
Sometimes you ask for Watch Me and continue walking.
And sometimes you simply pass without stopping at all.
We don't want the dog learning that every successful Sit automatically earns a greeting.
That would create another predictable expectation.
The lesson is that he waits for direction.
And whatever direction you give, he follows.
What If Your Dog Breaks SIT/STAY Before SAY HI?
Then the greeting doesn't happen yet.
Simple.
The dog stands up.
Moves toward the person.
Or begins jumping.
The helper stops approaching.
You reset the assignment.
And you try again at an easier level.
Don't let the person reward the broken position by petting the dog or offering food.
And don't repeatedly release the dog just because he's too excited to remain seated.
That simply teaches him that enough anticipation eventually gets him the interaction.
Instead, shorten the duration.
Increase distance.
Use a calmer helper.
And build successful repetitions.
Don't Make Every Greeting an Endurance Test
Now, I also don't want you turning a simple greeting into a ten-minute Sit/Stay competition.
When we're beginning, success may be one second.
Sit.
Watch Me.
Good.
SAY HI.
A short greeting.
Come back.
Sit.
Reward.
Excellent.
That's a successful repetition.
Then gradually increase duration, excitement, and distractions as the dog becomes more reliable.
We're building a skill.
Not trying to set the dog up to fail.
Practice Greetings When Nobody Is Visiting
Please don't make Thanksgiving dinner your dog's first serious greeting-training session.
Arrange practice.
Have someone walk toward you.
Stop.
Approach again.
Talk.
Move away.
Repeat.
Begin with easy situations before introducing more exciting ones.
Some useful practice variations include:
- A person approaching quietly.
- A person speaking to you without acknowledging the dog.
- A person offering a treat while the dog maintains Sit/Stay.
- A person reaching down to pet after permission.
- A person walking past without greeting.
- A familiar neighbor approaching but not interacting.
- A short SAY HI greeting followed by Recall.
- A greeting where the dog returns to Sit/Stay and waits for another cue.
- A person leaving and returning several times.
- A practice session where no greeting is permitted at all.
The repeated experiences are what build reliability.
And remember, both the dog and the handler need practice.
You should become comfortable managing the leash, giving clear cues, rewarding the correct response, and ending the greeting without scrambling.
That's part of building muscle memory for both ends of the leash.
The Visitor Has a Job, Too
This is where many training plans fall apart.
You've been working for weeks to teach your dog to keep his feet on the floor.
Your friend walks in yelling, "OH MY GOODNESS! THERE'S MY BABY!"
She bends down.
Slaps her legs.
Calls the dog's name repeatedly.
And practically begs him to jump into her arms.
Then says, "Oh, it's okay. I don't mind!"
Well, I mind.
Because she isn't only deciding what happens to her. She's helping teach the dog what he should do to the next person he meets.
So the visitor needs to understand:
- Do not encourage jumping.
- Do not call the dog toward you without the handler's permission.
- Do not pet while the dog is jumping.
- Do not use food to lure the dog out of Sit/Stay.
- Do not assume SAY HI is automatic simply because you know the dog.
- Do not continue interacting after the handler calls the dog away.
- Wait while the handler resets the exercise.
- Follow the handler's direction about whether the greeting will happen.
If the person cannot follow those rules, they don't need to participate in training greetings.
Plenty of other people can help.
The Complete SAY HI Routine: A Real Example
Situation: You're walking your dog and encounter a friendly neighbor.
You: Stop at an appropriate distance.
You: "Sit."
Dog: Sits beside you.
You: "Watch Me."
Dog: Looks toward you instead of staring at the neighbor.
You: "Good."
You: "Say Hi."
Dog: Approaches the neighbor on a controlled leash.
Neighbor: Pets the dog while he keeps four paws on the floor.
You: "Come."
Dog: Leaves the interaction and returns.
You: "Sit."
Dog: Sits and remains until released.
You: "Good."
You: Reward.
You: Release or continue walking.
Now the dog has practiced the entire greeting.
Not just the approach.
Not just avoiding the jump.
But listening before, during, and after the interaction.
Jumping at the Front Door
Now let's bring this into the house.
The doorbell rings.
Your dog races to the entryway.
He barks.
Jumps.
And tries to greet whoever is entering.
Here's where I want to combine several familiar skills.
First, the doorway needs to be safe and controlled.
Then the dog needs a clear assignment.
For some dogs, I may use Sit/Stay.
For others, Place is an excellent choice.
Especially when I want the dog away from the immediate entrance while visitors arrive.
Use PLACE Before the Greeting
Once the dog understands Place independently, the doorbell can become a cue for a familiar routine.
Enough.
Come.
Place.
Remain until released.
But remember something important.
Being released from Place doesn't automatically mean the dog gets to greet.
Those are separate decisions.
You may release him and bring him to Sit/Stay before giving SAY HI.
Or you may decide he doesn't need to greet the visitor at all.
For the full doorbell routine, see How-To: Stop Barking at Windows, Doors and Visitors and How-To: Teach Place.
Don't Release From PLACE Into a Flying Tackle
This is an important distinction.
A dog may remain beautifully on Place while somebody enters.
Then you release him.
And he launches across the room like a furry cannonball.
Well, Place worked.
The greeting still needs training.
So don't simply release from Place directly into uncontrolled access to the visitor.
Keep the leash available.
Bring the dog into a familiar Sit/Stay.
Use Watch Me if necessary.
Then decide whether SAY HI is appropriate.
And remember, your dog doesn't have to greet everybody who enters your home.
When You Come Home: Four on the Floor Still Applies
Of course your dog is happy to see you.
And of course you're happy to see him.
But he can be happy with his feet on the floor.
If you come through the door and immediately reward jumping with hugs, petting, squealing, and attention, you're still teaching that jumping works.
Instead, pause the interaction until the dog is grounded.
Use a familiar Sit if needed.
Then greet him.
Love on him.
Talk to him.
Celebrate being home.
I'm not asking you to ignore your dog or make the reunion cold.
I'm teaching him how to receive attention without climbing your body.
Jumping When the Leash Comes Out
Some dogs become spring-loaded the moment you pick up the leash.
They bounce, paw, spin, and jump because something exciting is about to happen.
Don't attach the leash in the middle of the frenzy and immediately head outside.
You may be teaching the dog that jumping is simply part of the routine that gets him out the door.
Instead, ask for Sit.
Attach the leash while he remains grounded.
If he breaks the position, pause and reset.
Then continue.
It's another everyday opportunity to teach that excitement doesn't eliminate the need to listen.
What About Turning Your Back?
You've probably heard the advice: "Just turn your back and ignore the dog."
Sometimes that works.
But it's not my entire training plan.
A large dog may simply jump on your back.
Some dogs begin pawing harder, grabbing clothing, or circling around to get your attention.
And if the dog is knocking people down, I'm not going to ask Grandma to stand there repeatedly turning away and hoping for the best.
I'd rather use appropriate leash management to prevent the jump, teach a clear replacement response, and reward it.
That's much more practical.
What About Pushing the Dog Down?
If a dog jumps on me, of course I may need to block him or remove his feet from my body.
But I don't want pushing to become the training method.
Some dogs think hands on their chest and pushing backward are a fantastic game.
They jump right back up because the human has joined the physical interaction.
So prevent the jump when possible.
Reset the dog.
Ask for the behavior you want.
And reward the correct response.
There's no reason to turn the lesson into a wrestling match.
Don't Knee the Dog in the Chest
This old-school advice is still floating around.
When the dog jumps, drive your knee into his chest.
I'm not interested in using that as a training method.
It risks injury and doesn't teach the full greeting sequence I actually want.
I'd rather control the opportunity, prevent the jump, teach Sit/Stay and SAY HI, and reinforce appropriate interaction.
We're teaching clear communication rather than waiting for the mistake and trying to punish it hard enough that the dog never makes it again.
What If the Dog Jumps, Mouths, and Grabs Clothing?
Now we're dealing with more than an occasional excited greeting.
Some dogs become so aroused that they jump repeatedly, grab sleeves, mouth hands, and struggle to stop once the excitement begins.
That may require additional work on impulse control and the dog's ability to transition between excitement and calm.
Shorten the interaction.
Use appropriate management.
Keep the greeting simple.
And don't continue winding the dog up when he's already losing the ability to listen.
Sometimes a familiar Sit, Down, or Place exercise may help redirect him.
But if the dog is threatening, biting, or showing serious behavioral concerns, this is no longer an ordinary jumping lesson.
It requires individual assessment and appropriate safety management.
Children and Vulnerable Adults: Management First
If your dog can knock a child down, don't use the child as training equipment.
Put the leash on before the interaction.
Use a gate or another secure barrier if needed.
Practice with capable adults first.
The same applies to elderly visitors, people with balance problems, and anybody who cannot safely absorb a large dog's enthusiasm.
These are not situations where I want you crossing your fingers and hoping the dog remembers Sit.
Prevent the jump while you teach.
And never require a fearful or uncomfortable dog to accept physical contact simply because somebody wants to say hello.
Don't Let Your Dog Rehearse Jumping All Day
This is the same principle I emphasize with barking and other established behavior habits.
Consistency is key.
You cannot spend fifteen minutes teaching four on the floor and then allow the dog to jump on everyone he meets for the rest of the day.
Or spend three weeks teaching SAY HI while your neighbor continues calling him over without permission every morning.
During the training period:
- Put the leash on before expected visitor arrivals.
- Use a gate or Place when greetings would be too exciting.
- Ask visitors to follow the same rules.
- Prevent jumping on children and vulnerable adults.
- Don't encourage paws-up hugs while teaching four on the floor.
- Practice with cooperative helpers.
- Require Sit/Stay before permission-based greetings.
- Don't allow familiar people to override your instructions.
- Practice passing people without greeting.
- Reward calm attention and voluntary check-ins.
Every successful jump that earns attention can strengthen the old habit.
Every successful greeting where the dog waits for permission and keeps his feet down strengthens the new one.
What If You Want Your Dog to Give Hugs?
You can teach a dog to put his paws up on cue if that's something you enjoy and it's safe for both of you.
But that's a separate behavior.
First, I want the default to be four paws on the floor.
Then you may introduce a distinct invitation such as Hug or Up.
No invitation?
Feet stay down.
That distinction matters because the dog shouldn't assume that everyone wants the same physical interaction.
Everyone in the Household Has to Follow the Same Rules
Here's how we end up with a dog who doesn't jump on one person but launches himself at everyone else.
One person requires Sit/Stay.
Another pets him while he's standing on their legs.
Somebody else wrestles with him when he jumps.
And visitors encourage it because they think it's cute.
The dog learns different rules for different people.
And perhaps even different rules depending on who's holding the leash.
That's not the consistency I'm looking for.
The expectations should remain the same.
Four on the floor.
Wait for permission.
SAY HI when appropriate.
COME when called.
Return to the handler and resume the assignment.
Everybody needs to understand the process.
How to Build Reliability With Repetitions
Here's something I want to emphasize.
One successful greeting doesn't mean the dog has mastered the behavior.
We need repetitions.
And not just with the same person in the same room.
Practice with different people and in different environments.
Begin with easy situations.
Then gradually add:
- A more exciting person.
- A person approaching more closely.
- A helper speaking to the dog.
- A visible treat.
- Another person passing nearby.
- A short SAY HI greeting.
- A longer greeting.
- Recall away from an enjoyable interaction.
- A return to Sit/Stay.
- Walking past a familiar person without greeting.
Make only manageable increases in difficulty.
If the dog cannot succeed, simplify the exercise.
We're building a reliable response, not trying to prove how difficult we can make every practice session.
Build the Human's Muscle Memory, Too
This is another part of training that pet parents often overlook.
YOU need practice.
Where do you stand when somebody approaches?
How do you manage the leash?
When do you ask for Sit?
When do you reward?
When do you say SAY HI?
How do you call the dog away?
And what happens if he attempts to jump?
I don't want you trying to figure that out in the middle of an unexpected encounter.
Practice the sequence until your own response becomes familiar.
That way, when somebody approaches, you don't start fumbling with the leash and issuing six different commands.
You already know the routine.
And so does your dog.
How Do You Know the Greeting Routine Is Working?
I'm looking for more than simply avoiding a jump.
| Skill | What Success Looks Like |
|---|---|
| Four on the floor | The dog receives attention without placing paws on people. |
| Sit/Stay | The dog maintains the position while someone approaches. |
| Watch Me | The dog redirects attention to the handler despite wanting to greet. |
| SAY HI | The dog approaches the designated person only after permission. |
| Greeting manners | The dog interacts appropriately without jumping, pawing, or body-slamming. |
| COME | The dog leaves the interaction when called and returns promptly. |
| Return to Sit/Stay | The dog resumes the assignment and waits for release. |
| Food distractions | The dog doesn't break Sit/Stay simply because another person offers food. |
| No-greeting practice | The dog can pass familiar and unfamiliar people without approaching. |
A Practical Greeting Training Session
If you're beginning with a dog who has a well-established jumping habit, keep the first sessions short.
Ten-Minute Controlled Greeting Practice
- Two minutes: Review Sit/Stay and Watch Me with no helper nearby.
- Two minutes: Have the helper approach and reward four on the floor while maintaining Sit.
- Two minutes: Practice the helper approaching with a treat without causing the dog to break Sit/Stay.
- Two minutes: Practice SAY HI, a short greeting, COME, and returning to Sit/Stay.
- Two minutes: Practice passing the helper without greeting, then finish with an easy success.
Adjust the session to your dog's ability. Don't continue rehearsing failures simply because you're trying to finish all ten minutes.
Common Jumping and Greeting Mistakes
| Mistake | Why It Matters | Better Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Waiting until the dog jumps to use the leash | The dog has already practiced the unwanted behavior. | Prepare the leash before the greeting. |
| Rewarding jumping with attention | Jumping continues producing the desired interaction. | Reward four paws on the floor. |
| Using constant leash pressure | Creates discomfort and may interfere with the lesson. | Limit jumping safely while allowing a comfortable Sit or Stand. |
| Allowing the person to lure the dog out of Sit | Teaches the dog to break position for food. | Deliver the reward while the dog maintains the assignment. |
| Assuming every Sit earns a greeting | Creates anticipation that may undermine self-control. | Sometimes SAY HI, sometimes continue walking. |
| Letting the favorite neighbor override commands | The dog learns that people and treats control access. | The handler controls greetings and releases. |
| Only teaching the approach | The dog may ignore the handler once greeting begins. | Practice COME and return to Sit/Stay. |
| Releasing from Place directly into visitors | The dog may explode into an uncontrolled greeting. | Use Sit/Stay and SAY HI as a separate progression. |
| Inconsistent household rules | Different people reinforce different behavior. | Make everyone follow the same greeting protocol. |
| Practicing only during real visits | The situations may be too exciting for effective learning. | Use cooperative helpers and controlled repetitions. |
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I stop my dog jumping on people?
Prevent the dog from successfully jumping using appropriate leash management, reinforce four paws on the floor, teach Sit/Stay, and make attention and greetings dependent on calm behavior and handler permission.
Why do you step on the leash?
During supervised training, placing a foot on an appropriate section of leash can limit upward movement so the dog cannot reach the person. The dog must still be able to stand and Sit comfortably. Use a secure harness and avoid sudden neck pressure or unsafe restraint.
What does SAY HI mean?
SAY HI is a permission cue. It tells the dog that he may approach and greet a particular person. It does not mean he can jump, greet everybody nearby, or ignore a subsequent Recall.
Should my dog Sit before greeting someone?
For structured greetings, yes. I use Sit/Stay to establish control and may add Watch Me so the dog checks in with the handler before receiving permission to greet.
Can someone give my dog a treat while he's in Sit/Stay?
Yes, provided the dog remains in the assigned position. The treat should be delivered to the dog's level rather than luring him into standing or approaching. The person offering food does not release the dog.
Should my dog greet every person on our walks?
No. A dog should be able to see familiar and unfamiliar people without automatically approaching them. Sometimes the handler gives permission to greet, and sometimes the dog simply continues walking.
What if it's my dog's favorite neighbor?
The rules don't change. Familiarity and anticipation don't automatically create permission to greet. The dog waits for the handler's direction even if the person is carrying his favorite treats.
How do I end the greeting?
Call COME. The dog returns to the handler, resumes Sit/Stay when asked, and waits for the next instruction or release.
What if my dog jumps after I say SAY HI?
The greeting stops. Use the leash to prevent unwanted contact, reset the dog, and try again at a less exciting level. Reinforce four paws on the floor during the interaction.
Can Place help with jumping at the front door?
Yes. Place is useful for keeping the dog away from the entryway while visitors arrive. But being released from Place doesn't automatically mean the dog may greet. Teach the greeting routine separately.
How often should I practice greetings?
Use frequent, short, controlled sessions with cooperative people. Practice both permission-based greetings and walking past people without interaction. Gradually introduce more exciting helpers and environments.
What if jumping includes biting or aggressive behavior?
That's not necessarily ordinary excited greeting behavior. Use safe management and seek an individualized behavioral assessment, especially when people are at risk of injury.
Your Dog Doesn't Get to Decide Who He Greets
Here's what I want you remembering.
Your dog can love people.
He can be thrilled to see his favorite neighbor.
He can enjoy a wonderful greeting.
And he can certainly receive treats and affection from people who enjoy interacting with him.
But none of those things mean he gets to make the decisions.
Not about when to approach.
Not about when Sit/Stay is finished.
Not about whether to jump.
And not about whether he needs to return when called.
Those are parts of the training system.
We start by rewarding four paws on the floor.
We use the leash to prevent jumping while the dog is learning.
We teach Sit/Stay and Watch Me.
We introduce SAY HI as a meaningful permission cue.
We call the dog back with COME.
And we return to Sit/Stay until released.
Then we practice.
And practice.
And practice some more.
With friendly people.
With familiar neighbors.
With people holding treats.
And with people the dog doesn't get to greet at all.
Eventually, I want my dog understanding that seeing somebody doesn't automatically require him to do anything.
He can notice the person.
Check in with me.
And wait for direction.
Because that's what we're really teaching.
The dog takes his cues from YOU—not from the excitement of seeing someone or the possibility of a treat.
Four on the floor earns rewards. Sit/Stay establishes the assignment. Watch Me returns attention to the handler. SAY HI gives permission. COME ends the greeting.
And sometimes we don't greet at all.
Those rules apply to strangers, visitors, family friends, and even the favorite neighbor with the pocket full of treats.
Your dog doesn't need to become less enthusiastic about people. He needs to learn that enthusiasm doesn't override your instructions.
When Your Dog's Greetings Are Out of Control
Some dogs simply haven't learned appropriate greeting manners. Others become so excited, frustrated, anxious, or overwhelmed around people that ordinary training exercises aren't enough.
My behavior work considers the dog's training history, emotional state, environment, physical health, nutrition, and relationship with the handler.
Every behavior case begins with an initial evaluation to determine appropriate next steps and whether continued coaching is suitable.
Let's figure out what's driving the behavior and develop a plan that makes sense for your dog.
Tell Me About Your DogEducational Information: Use appropriately fitted equipment and supervised leash management. Avoid restraint methods that cause neck pressure, injury, or loss of balance. Dogs displaying significant fear, aggression, biting, or unsafe excitement around people require individualized assessment and appropriate safety precautions.